PVR to YYZ

My last day in Vallarta was a flurry of activity. After returning the modem to CosmoRed, I returned home to try to get some rest while waiting for a friend to come over to pick up the stuff I was selling to him and his wife. Basically, they bought everything I couldn't fit into two boxes and four suitcases. I expected him by 4PM at the latest but I asked him to come earlier, if possible. At 3PM my doorbell rang but it was Heidi, who was out for one last shopping excursion, and hoping to have lunch with me. We left a note for my friend and headed over to Machi's BBQ.

For some reason, I wasn't feeling all that great. I might have been a wee bit hungover from my over-indulgences the night before at Vista Grill. In any event, I figured a cheeseburger, fries and a Coca Light might help my stomach and it did. Turns out I was just hungry after all. My friend found us there and after lunch, he and I headed back to my place to load up the car. Unfortunately, he grossly under-estimated the amount of stuff I had for him. Thankfully, his friend showed up with an SUV and everything fit inside the two vehicles.

Now I was really ready for a siesta but my neighbours had other plans for me. I had given a large bag of gently used clothes to them and they insisted on serving me lunch. I tried to decline but they both looked so crestfallen, I agreed to eat again. They served me fish, shrimp and steamed veggies. It was a wonderful lunch even though I couldn't finish it. We talked about many things, all in Spanish, and I was surprised to learn that they are both in their mid-40s. They are both so sweet but with very difficult lives. Mexico is not kind to older women without families to help them.

I decided it was just a lack of sleep and anxiousness giving me the knot in my stomach so I wanted to relax prior to my final night in Vallarta. To be honest, I would have rather stayed home until it was time to get up and take my flight in the morning but the Goddesses had other plans for me. I met them and Scott at the condo for sunset drinks and then we strolled over to Boca Bento for dinner. Frankly, I was a little disappointed with dinner but, to be fair, I wasn't feeling all that great. We decided on a nightcap at La Noche and then Scott walked me part way home.

Home at last, I finished packing, wrote notes to be delivered in the morning and then tried to sleep, knowing I had to get up at 6:30AM. My alarm woke me up and then I packed it. I showered for the last time, got dressed and walked to Cafe du Soleil for breakfast with Ben and Amy. I was the only one in the cafe for the half hour I was there so we had a nice visit before more goodbyes and my trip to the airport. My neighbour ladies came through for me again, waking up early to help me get my bags down the stairs and into the taxi. The driver was older, friendly and helpful with the two big suitcases. I gave him $120 pesos for an $80 peso fare and his huge smile was my reward. The luggage porter also warranted a large tip as he waited patiently with me inside the airport while they wrote up my ticket.

The Goddesses arrived after me and I transferred one bag each to Heidi and Rose, so that we would all be checking the limit of two bags each. I knew I far surpassed the 44 lbs. stipulated by the airlines but since the flight wasn't full, they didn't weigh a single one of our bags. What luck! The check in process was easy and we didn't spend more than 20 minutes in total for the whole procedure. Once through to the boarding area, we sat around, chatting and occasionally wandering off into the various duty-free shops in the departure level. Eventually our flight was called and we boarded the flight. The four of us shared six seats, one row behind the other with a space in between. Very comfortable and relaxing ...

As the plane readied for take-off, I happened to look out towards the tarmac to see the ground crew waving goodbye to us. Only in Mexico ... *smile* I felt no sadness at all as the plane lifted off the ground and surged out over Banderas Bay. My last view of Vallarta was picture postcard perfect. The sun was beating down on the sparkling blue water of the bay, with the green mountains acting as a backdrop to the city below. I held hands with Heidi and Rose, my heart beating very hard in my chest and then, the vista was lost when the plane banked to head north. I slowly turned my gaze away from the window and looked forward.

For my adventures in Toronto and beyond, go to my new blog, Metro Goddess.

Last Post ... Maybe

I woke up this morning at 4:45AM with a severe case of heartburn and/or insomnia. Can you actually develop insomnia after sleeping for five hours peacefully? Something woke me up -- probably a combination of stomach butterflies and my mind going 90 mph, trying to remember everything I have to do today. Yesterday I actually put some stuff into suitcases. I'd been putting it off, thinking to myself, "How long can it take?". Well, my two suitcases for clothes were overflowing BEFORE I picked up the clean laundry. *sigh* I just need to organize them a little better.

I've been siphoning off pieces of my life for friends, giving away little momentos of my PV existence. So when you sit on the couch at Cafe du Soleil and lean on those brightly, striped pillows, think of me! *smile* My friend Angie got new fluffy blue towels and after purging my massive collection of lipsticks (did I really think they wouldn't have any here???), I've got an impressive selection for my neighbour ladies.

So as my life in Vallarta winds down, I keep trying to think of something profound to write and I'm coming up with zilch. My experiences here have been happy, sad, frustrating, enlightening, blessed and cursed. I guess that's the way these things go. I am anxious and excited to be returning to Canada. I could say that I've learned a lot about myself but the fact is, I had a strong sense of self before I came down here.

I am not richer in a monetary sense but Iam definitely more "flush" when it comes to redefining my path in life. For the moment, the journey is taking me back to my roots and I keep getting positive reinforcement of that fact. The job market looks extremely promising in Toronto and my accomodation arrangements are almost finalized. All of that, in itself, proves to me that I am going in the right direction.

I'm not sure when I'll return to Puerto Vallarta, if ever. Things are changing here and I don't like a lot of what I see. Some of my friends are thinking of leaving. Others have left and are not coming back. But I definitely want to re-visit Mexico one day. This is a great country, with wonderful people and a vibrant history. I just wish that the country as a whole would develop to the point where social and environmental issues could take precedence over everything else. One day ... maybe.

Good Bread, Great Washrooms

My friend Rose has unique criteria with which to judge a restaurant. I've tried to apply it to the following restaurants. It seems that lately, we've been very lucky with our choices.

1. Sunday Night - Espresso/Como Pizza. I can't believe the girls have never eaten here before! The spagetti and lasagna were a delight and the service was great. Reasonably priced. Excellent garlic bread with real garlic! Washrooms upstairs.

2. Monday Night - Super Pollo. We usually dine in one night but I decided we needed a change of location so I invited us over to my friend Scott's place. We brought the chicken, potatoes, fresh bread and wine. Plus, I made my homemade caesar salad. Other than the salty potatoes and the 10,000 stairs up to his place, the evening was a huge success! And we invented the Scooter Shooter ... vanilla vodka (Stolly please!) and a bit of Kahlua over ice. YUM! We bought whole wheat baguettes at Rizo's and I think they are created at Collin's Bakery on V. Carranza. Scott has two bathrooms, both tastefully decorated.

3. Tuesday Night - Encanto. This was a last minute decision since we decided to dine late and in my 'hood. I've been a couple of times before but was never overly impressed with the food but LOVED the way the restaurant looks. Heidi said she wanted someplace quiet so Encanto was a perfect choice. She calls the decor "shabby chic Mexican". I had the house special: chicken breast rolled with goat cheese, spinach and mushrooms. The green sauce served with it was divine. Bread selection consisted of homemade hot rolls made with spicey seasonings and cream cheese. Bathrooms are modern, clean and funky.

4. Wednesday Night - Vista Grill. All I can say is, if you haven't been to Vista Grill, what the hell are you waiting for??? We had drinks before dinner, a bottle of wine with dinner, appetizers (3) and entrees (3), plus an after dinner drink for only $2400 pesos including the tip. It was worth every single peso. The view is amazing. Dining at Vista Grill is an event not to be missed. Splurge! You're worth it ... We all decided we want to LIVE at Vista Grill. The bathrooms are fabulous; the wine "cellar" (actually a glassed in main floor cooler right in the restaurant) impressive and I could live on their bread and wine. Rose gave this two thumbs up!

For our last night, we've chosen Boca Bento. It was a favourite of our's last year so we've been saving it for the end of GCV. I like the owners, know the manager very well and love the bar area. If you think you can't afford to eat at Boca Bento, think again. They have a daily happy hour between 5 and 7PM on food and drinks.

I've never eaten so well or so often as I do when my girlfriends are here. Each meal brings new sensations, flavours and emotions. These are the kinds of memories that last forever ... or, in case we forget, Heidi has it all on her new digital camera.

BUEN PROVECHO!

Something Big?

"This week brings a full Moon in your sign. If you are anticipating a quiet, easy time, you had better adjust your expectations. Something big is brewing. Now don't worry, I said big, not bad. It's not necessarily going to be easy but it won't prove hard, either. Just challenging in the nicest possible sense. You are about to put all your energy into something very demanding that's wonderfully worthwhile. If you don't already know where your great opportunity lies, you'll see it soon enough."

How does this Jonathan Cainer guy know what's going on in my life??? Full Moon on Thursday, April 13, my last "full" day in Puerto Vallarta. Sounds like a good omen to me!

The End of an Era

Today is Monday and, as is my wont, I went to meet Kathy at Chiles for one last cheeseburger before I leave this Friday. But when I got there, the place was in a shambles and they definitely were not serving lunch! Hank and Conrad were running around, trying to gather up the last of their personal possessions and the new owners were running around trying to make sense of the chaos.

I know this is exactly what Hank and Conrad want ... after 11 years of running the restaurant, they are tired and want to rest. I also know they have made a good choice in the new owners, who have promised to maintain the integrity of Chiles and keep the good old standbys on the menu: burgers, chicken, etc. But the food is not the only reason we loved Chiles.

Still, it was a sad reminder that things never stay the same and their saying goodbye after so many years only emphasized what I have to do at the end of this week. I'll admit I got a little emotional as the magnitude of what I'm about to do finally hit me. Hank and Conrad seem to feel the same way; sad that their days as restauranteurs are over but happy at this fresh start to their "retirement". I use that word loosely as I can't imagine either of them standing still for a minute.

Five Days To Go!

I can't remember what day it was when I last posted but I've eaten at El Arrayan, Vitea and Agave Grill. I think I need to go to the bank today! BTW, the exchange rates are changing so fast, the banks can't keep their signs in window up to date. My friend Myles says this happens every year when he leaves. He says it is just an indication that it is time for him to head back to Canada. Anyway, we're off to lunch at the River Cafe today at noon, so I better get showered and changed. More later ...

They were still serving breakfast at the River Cafe so I had shrimp and spinach crepes au gratin with hollandaise sauce. Very nice setting outside, overlooking the river. With coffee and juice, the price was $130 pesos. Afterwards, Rose and I went shopping. The rate at the bank was 9.45 for the $CDN so $3000 pesos cost me $317CDN. Saw some shoes I wouldn't mind buying and found a few goodies at Woolworth's (don't I always?). Stocked up on L'Oreal eye makeup remover for $48.50 pesos which is much, much cheaper than what it is in Canada.

I'm off for my siesta now. More again later ...

More Goddess Stuff

Well we've been busy eating our way through town. We've done La Piazzetta, Joe Jack's Fish Shack and La Esquina de los Caprichos. Tonight we're doing the german buffet at Hacienda Alemana followed by the drag queen show at The Palm. I ran into Shane at Colleen's going away party on Monday night and he will be performing as his alter ego, Ida Slapter, tonight at 11PM.

Heidi, Rose and I spent a wonderful day in Bucerias yesterday. We took the bus out in the morning and enjoyed the beach there for about three hours. It is ideal for walking and shell collecting. We had a light lunch at El Chivero (love, love, LOVE their tortilla soup!) and then wandered around town, looking at trinkets.

Today I had another style show for Viva at a beautiful hacienda up in Conchas Chinas. The ladies were there on a junket with Mary Kay Cosmetics so three of us went out there to strut our stuff and peddle Viva's wares. Here we are, pretty in pink, in deference to our hostesses' business (from left to right), Margarita, me and Fabiola.

The Future Looks Promising ...

From my favourite website for all things horoscopical (www.cainer.com):

This week, your ruler, Venus, forms a helpful, harmonious alignment to Pluto, the planet of profound revelation. Then, it moves into a sector of the sky that traditionally symbolises hard work and intense commitment. You're about to stop toying with an idea or possiblity as you finally reach an important decision and then start giving it all you've got. If you think that sounds positive, you are right. It is. But there may come a point, just as the atmosphere becomes more serious when you suddenly wonder where life's levity has gone. It is, though, merely standing briefly aside while you focus your attention. The reward for this will be success... followed by celebration.

Bagpipes at the Beach

Yup! You read that right ... bagpipes, at the beach! Who'd have thought those two things would go together? Maybe in Scotland ... do they have beaches in Scotland?!? I have been telling the Goddesses about the Green Chairs Beach Club for some time now. I was turned on to this place by my friend Scott, who describes it as "gay friendly" but not as gay as the Blue Chairs. LOL

We found a great spot, under a HUGE palapa, with five chairs and proceeded to unwind. We sat in the sun, enjoyed the shade, walked on the beach, read, chatted and just generally relaxed. I could slowly see Vallarta working her magic on my friends' tired, tense muscles. As we waited for our lunches to arrive (the food is really good at this place), I noticed a band setting up and happened to mention that one of the guys was wearing a kilt and was holding bagpipes.

Actually, I like the bagpipes (probably due to my brief stint in the military). I always enjoyed a good parade and when the pipes were being played, it was easier to march in time. As it turned out, this particular band was from Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA and they weren't bad. They weren't great either and certainly not suitable for a relaxing, quiet day at the beach. We ate lunch, packed up and headed back to the rooftop pool at Plazamar until I went home to rest up for Saturday night.


We met at CCs for sunset drinks and our "Auntie Goddess", Isabel showed up as well. We posed for photos, enjoyed a libation (or two) and then went to Tia Catrina for dinner. After that, we headed over to Andales to make an appearance. As we walked into the bar, wearing our boas and dimestore tiaras, the song "Prison Bitch" started playing. We certainly caused a sensation, especially among the other female patrons. This always happens when the Goddesses go out; other women want to join in the fun. There is something very liberating about acting like a total fool in public among a good natured crowd. We had a blast! I think I can safely say the Goddesses OWNED that bar that night, even if it was just for a couple of hours.

Out of all of us, Mary Ann usually looks the best in photos so I couldn't resist posting this. What a nice ass you have my dear!

GCV Commences!

On Friday morning, I was up and out of the house by around 11AM and headed over to Plazamar thinking that the girls might have arrived early. Their flight was scheduled to get in at 10:20AM, which meant it left Toronto at 6AM. If you extrapolate that time backwards, it means that Heidi and Rose were up at 2AM Toronto time or 1AM Vallarta time. Keep that in mind ...

I promised to help M.A. with her suitcases so I climbed three flights of stairs to her room at the Lily to find her totally packed and sitting on the bed reading. Apparently she forgot to change her watch to Vallarta time so she had been sitting around for an hour waiting for me. At first she was worried I was not going to show up but then realized her mistake.

As we wheeled up to the front door at Plazamar, we could see the other Goddesses had arrived. After many hugs, kisses and airplane horror stories later, we were off for lunch at Banana Cantina. I had been raving about Debbi Egan's new restaurant for a couple of weeks and they couldn't wait to try it! We were not disappointed. The food is excellent and the decor is very bright and colourful. Next time you're in Vallarta, check them out above Choco Banana, on the corner of Amapas and Pulpito.

After that we hit the Scotiabank and then I left them to get settled in at the condo. We met later for drinks on the terrace, overlooking the ocean, and took some opening night photos. Then it was off to dinner at Daiquiri Dick's. Lenin and Jorge were playing a benefit concert that night to help raise money for their special projects (children). Dinner was amazing, as usual. I had salmon, Heidi & Bea had Mahi Mahi, M.A. had shrimp and Rose had ostrich. Then we headed over to La Noche, our favourite "alternative" martini bar and closed the first evening of GCV with a nightcap.